Welcome to Part Two of Sri Lanka (part one here), whereupon we visit an old fort, a couple of excellent temples, a railway crossing and a bizillion palm trees (because I for one can never get enough of palm trees).
Let’s begin close to the water’s edge at Galle Fort, one of Sri Lanka’s main tourist attractions. As such, I didn’t have high hopes; as you know, I’m happiest off-piste, with preferably no one around like me (ie tourist). But after several visits I grew to like the place, especially around sunset in the area near the lighthouse where locals outnumber the tourists and a mosque’s haunting call to prayer rings out through the narrow streets and out over the Indian Ocean.
Right across from the lighthouse is Meeran Mosque (10% of Sri Lankan people are Muslim). I didn’t get a decent shot of the mosque but I did manage to snap these lovely men, enjoying the chance to chinwag in the cool of the early evening.
While I was drawn to the lighthouse area and the locals parading along the ramparts, I also enjoyed exploring the various buildings in the centre of the fort. Originally built by the Portuguese in 1588, the Dutch took over the fort in 1649 and made significant improvements, many by the VOC (Verenigde Oostindindische Compagnie), the Dutch East India Company. Today, over 400 years later, a lot of original architecture is still in place, thanks to the restoration efforts of the Archaeological Department of Sri Lanka as well as locals and foreigners renovating some of the dilapidated buildings.
In contrast to the fort and its very Dutch flavour is the hotel we stayed in, Tamarind Hill, about a 15 minute tuk tuk drive away, that was built in the British era in the 1800s.
Moving from beautiful buildings built for business and pleasure, to those designed for worship – Buddhist temples. More than 70% of the Sri Lankan population is Buddhist, and there must be thousands of temples around, from neighbourhood stupas to the grand Japanese Peace Pagoda.
We only visited a handful of temples, and the two I loved were both really old and virtually empty.
The first is called Budu Raja Maha Wehera Wewurukannala, located near Dikwella. Like most Sri Lankan Buddhist temples, there are various parts to it, but I loved the first temple and its fabulous 250 year old carvings.
I have no idea of the name of the second temple I stumbled upon near Galle, but it had a wonderful air of faded grandeur about it, with a dramatic staircase and several generous landings, as well as a highly colourful interior filled with peeling frescoes. Aside from a few young monks and a temple guard, there was no one else around. Ideal conditions for the snoop.
Back outside, I spent what many (eg the two young monks) would consider a ridiculous amount of time sizing up the coconut tree palms around the temple grounds. I have always loved palm trees – the iconic shape, the way they conjure up summer, etc – so I was in flora heaven in Sri Lanka, home to Cocos Nucifera, the coconut palm. Aside from containing my daughter’s name, Cocos Nucifera is just so very clever, providing milk, water, oil and wood from the coconut itself, as well as animal feed, firewood and thatching from the leaves.
May I just express my love for Cocos Nucifera in the following three images, and then I promise not to speak of it again.
Okay, the last thing I want to share with you is my time spent waiting for a train. Not to board, sadly (I absolutely love train trips), but just to pass through. I was wandering around a back road outside Galle when I saw a man in a lungi (Sri Lankan sari) cordoning off the crossing with a piece of string. We didn’t speak a word but I hung around and took some pics of him, while waiting for the train to come through.
And that’s it. I hope you enjoyed having a squiz at Sri Lanka, a country that survived a bitter civil war and a deadly tsunami to become one of the world’s latest ‘it’ destinations, thanks to its great beauty, lovely people and beguiling beasts.
And Coco? She loved it too. Especially when the hotels had good wifi.
Joyce says:
Hi Louise,
Thank you for this beautiful portrayal of Sri Lanka, despite the devastation of civil wars and tsunami that this country has gone through, I could feel a sense of serenity through your photos.
Louise says:
Thanks Joyce. The people are pretty serene themselves – I like to think it’s the Buddhist influence.
Bunky says:
Gorgeous Louise. Sri Lanka through fresh eyes. tx
Louise says:
Thanks tb x
Jo Kaupe says:
Loving all those gorgeous colours, bright and subtle
Louise says:
Some of the faded colours, like on the back wall of the temple with the horseman, are just so beautiful. They reminded me of European classical art.
Peter McConnochie says:
A beautiful adventure. Thanks for sharing such lovely images.
Louise says:
Thanks Peter, sad that the adventure always has to end!
Pat Drummond says:
Thank you again for taking us with you.
Louise says:
My pleasure Pat, very glad you could all come along for the ride.
Frank Page says:
Hey Louise, you nailed it. Your descriptions and Galle Fort images captured it perfectly and all the reasons We love that part of SL and can’t wait to be back again later this year. I knew you’d do SL well. Thank you.
Louise says:
Thanks Frank. Happy travels.
Di Nash says:
So great seeing your post and images. I’ve missed their regularity.
Love love love your work.
Di x
Louise says:
You’ve been travelling with us for a long time Di, so good you’re still here!
Margaret Haigh says:
You’ve captured the beauty of Serendip beautifully Louise. Like you I went with an offspring – my youngest son. He love it as much as I.
Louise says:
Thank you Margaret. It’s a lovely place to go with kids. Glad you both enjoyed it.
Gayleeee says:
Stunning pics Louisa!
Louise says:
Thanks Gaylee! x
Norm says:
Thanks for once again sharing your excellent photos & travels
Louise says:
Thanks Norm. I think I get just as much pleasure sharing.
SarahN says:
Oh wow, to come back after not checking here in ages, and to find you’ve been where my family reunion trip has been planned for Christmas 2017 – you can be sure I circulated your blog address
And also circulated it to some French people in Sydney – they bemoaned there are more ‘long shots’ but I much prefer the detail you capture in your photography.
Louise says:
Hi SarahN! Great place for a family reunion. Have fun!
Chris Rees says:
Hello, I haven’t been here in ages but so glad I came back. It’s quietly inspiring. My 14 yo is off to Nepal on a school trip in 12 months and I hope he can soak up the sights and engage with the people like you do. Too much to expect he will take beautiful photos too but we can hope.